Crankdaddy Jams Gears; Results in Major Rock Rash & Stitches

Had no problem making my way through the Mahoosuc Notch, what some say is the hardest part of the AT; had no problem with the "arm" on my way up and over Old Spec.  But coming down the mountain the next morning I found myself flat on my back with a sickening feeling that I might be in trouble.

Assess the damage and find that I'm not in too bad of shape; falls are standard fair going down the steep and rocky trails through New Hampshire and Maine - especially when wet.  Find that my left leg and left forearm has a fair amount of rock rash but then notice that there was something fleshy and white sticking out of my arm.  Determined that I got a little bit more than just rock rash, seem to have a gash as well.  Not big, no big deal I think.

Firefly hovered around me as I assessed the damage and quickly concluded it was time for the first aid bag.  Rips everything out of my pack because it's at the very bottom, only to find that everything in the first aid kit is soaked thanks to a water problem I had earlier in the morning.  Soggy first aid pads and tape not much good, Firefly rips everything out of her pack to find her kit.  She finds a dry pad and some tape, grabs my arm and before you know it has everything wrapped up looking good.  I'm thinking I am good to go; she's thinking this is a temporary fix and we need to get to a medical clinic.  We debate this issue as we head down to the bottom of the mountain (Rocket Rick kept going because he didn't hear what was going on).

Down at the bottom of Old Spec, Firefly just happens to notice a woman who has a look of an EMT.  Happens to specialize as an EMT for trail injuries.  Firefly brings her over, along with a large bag of goodies. I take the bandage off and the EMT, Britney, quickly concludes that I need more medical attention to prevent infection, etc.(Firefly wins the debate).  As Britney concludes this, two women hikers pass by and ask me if I need a ride into town...can take two of us in their car but will have to come back for the third (about 20 miles each way).  We take them up on their wonderful offer and show up at a medical clinic 15 minutes after closing; just happen to still be open and a very pleasant PA agrees to treat me.  Insurance forms completed, I go in, get cleaned and stitched up and am out the door by the time Rocket Rick is dropped off by the two ladies who were kind enough to make two round trips (one happens to be the LaCrosse coach for Bowdoin). We have beers and burgers at a great pub in Bethel, call for a shuttle and are relaxing on the porch of a hostel in Andover by 5:00 pm. Life is good again.

Long story even longer: small mishap but quickly resolved thanks to to amazing trail magic and angels!  We were planning for a long/short day, ended up doing a short/long day and did not lose any time.

We are in Andover, ME with about 256 miles to go...will go a bit more slowly...

Seasoned Thru-Hiker Makes Grand Entrance

The hut network of New Hampshire affords the opportunity for day hikers and weekenders to experience the Whites with relative ease and comfort. The most popular hut is Lake of the Clouds, in a valley below Mount Washington. The hut supports 93 for $95 a night, which includes a bunk, dinner and breakfast. Generally speaking, thru-hikers are treated by staff as second class citizens but the tourists are fascinated by us.

We thought we would stop at the hut to get water and to take a break before our summit of Mt. Washington. Hiking in and out of the huts are challenging because of all of the people...this one in particular because there were several dozen people milling about waiting for a tour or something like that to begin.

Now thru-hikers tend to have an aura of confidence about them as they enter such a place, striding with great confidence with poles in hands and pack on back. The crowds naturally part way in awe of watching a thru-hiker in action.

Crankdaddy is feeling at the top of his game as the novice day hikers make way so this seasoned thru-hiker can get to the hut, take care of business and continue his important journey North. As I was in the thick of the crowd right in front of the door some evil spirit came up from the depths of the mountain, grabed my ankle, and made me do a complete and total face plant. Totally humiliated, as my fellow thru-hikers quickly separated themselves from me, I picked myself up and boldly stated that was my first fall in over 1,800 miles. Hearing a few giggles in the crowd I knew I was just a poser and shuffled away into the hut to lick my wounds.

Crankdaddy's Fatherly Protective Instincts Kick In On the Trail

After a very challenging hike into Madison Hut Crankdaddy, Tree Top, Rocket Rick and Firefly were told "there was no room at the Inn" for thru-hikers and were encouraged to move on. Options extremely limited, we made our way down a steep, rocky and rugged off trail to a primitive tenting area.

Beatup pretty bad, we setup our tents in a very narrow space along the trail, made up a quick cold meal and hit the sack. Soundly asleep with Tree Top snoozing next to me I was awakened by the deep panting sound of an animal directly at the head of my tent.

Instincts kick in within my slumber state as I jump up, grab Tree Top and push him down to the bottom of the tent away from the four legged beast I see in the dark at the front of my tent. Having done my paternal duty of protecting my son from the wild beast I do what any thru-hiker would do - bark like a wild and raging dog...which triggered a response from a woman hiker letting me know that it's only her dog wanting to make a new friend on their way to their campsite.

A bit embarrassed after waking everybody up I figured I have my barking skills down if I ever come across a real beast.

Whites Behind Us & Maine in Front of Us

Dropped into Gorham, NH yesterday to nurse our retched knees, dry out and recharge at the wonderful White Mtns Lodge and Hostel. We are 16 miles from Maine, have banked 1,883 miles with less than 300 miles to go.

We caught up with some of the old gang, Malarky, Burley and Sheperd...dinner and beers as they head out today.

Hope to post more...Whites were beautiful but most challenging...slowing us down a bunch!

Tree Top Departs Company as Trio Continues on From Pinkam Notch, NH

Tree Top (Ben) bailed out on us after a great run through the Presidentials down into Pinkam Notch.  It was a great run with my son and was filled with great adventure, beauty and memories.  I would have to say that he got the best dose of what the AT is all about, ranging from getting stuck in a huge thunderstorm, meeting a few crazy folks on the trails, working for stay at a nice NH hut and experiencing the beauty of the Whites in very good weather - especially Mount Washington. 

More to follow on the last week when I have the chance.  Dropping Ben off at the Bus station as we head off to Gorham and into Maine over the next several days.

Crankdaddy

Ben Joining Me on the Trail

Currently waiting in Hanover, NH waiting for Ben's arrival.  He will be joining me on the trail at mile 1,772 and spend a week hiking through the beginning of the Whites.  Can't wait!

Hanover is an upscale community serving the needs of Dartmouth College, students, staff, parents, tourists, etc.  While it attempts to be hiker friendly it is a very expensive place for thru-hikers to stay.  We had heard about a lady who opened up her home to hikers - and would even pick us up.  We decided to give her a call. This little call ended up giving us one of our most interesting hostel experiences on the trail.

The first tip we were in trouble was when we hopped into the back seat of her car and noticed dog hair everywhere; the second tip was her painful effort to mimic our accents from Wisconsin, Ohio and New York.  We quickly realized that we were in a car heading into the woods with a woman who may be good intentioned but slightly off-centered.  She then began to tell us that we can stay either in the tepee or tank - our choice.  Not understanding what she meant, as she pulled into her driveway she pointed out an old and moldy car camper that clearly has not moved in at least ten years (tank) and a popup trailer tent (teepee) sitting at an angle.  This, along with her basement, was to be our home for the evening.  I guess we will almost do anything for a shower!

As we entered her house we realized why her car was layered with dog hair.  The smell hit us about two seconds before four dogs attacked us at the entry way.  As they were jumping on us we made our way into the basement and found a couch squeezed in between all sorts of boxes, equipment and wierd stuff.  This would be our lounge area...of course, smelling like dog.  Anything for a shower!

I made my way to the "tank", my abode for the evening, comtemplating whether I should place my tent drop cloth between the camper bed and my sleeping bag.  I decided to take a chance and do with out.  Coming back to the house I met Rocket Rick as he was heading to his teepee.  He made some comment about the basement smelling more and more like dog.  As I walked into the basement to use the bathroom I concluded the same and quickly realized why.  There on the floor was something a dog likes to do sometimes when they are angry with their owners.  She warned us of this possibility but I thought she was joking.  At that point I was more than happy to be sleeping outside in the "tank" where I only had to fight off mice and hope there were no fleas or bed bugs.

We got up the next morning, she drove us into Hanover, gave us a big hug and sent us on our way with memories of a life time!



not have all

Vermont Delivers Trail Magic on Steroids

You've read about trail magic - not much of it in the north until recently when we had a whole string of opportunities and good fortune.

It all started as we headed out of Winturri Shelter on July 12th.  Having an early morning breakfast of instant oatmeal in a packet we were planning on completing either a 12 mile or 18 mile day depending on weather and ambition.  Three miles in we came to a road crossing with a farmer's market .2 of a mile down the road.  We hiked down the road, betting there at 8:30 only to find that it did not open until 10:00 am.  Knowing that this was an important ice cream opportunity it took us about 5 seconds to debate and conclude that it was critical for us to hang around until 10:00 am. Easy decision.

At about 9:15 a nice lady pulls up in her car, said she noticed our presence as she was driving by and cut her trip to the bank short to open up early for us.  One pint of ice cream, a soda, and the purchase of lunch items (a fresh tomato, fresh smoked chicken breast and home made bread) got us on our way back to the trail.

Six miles into the day we came on top of hill loaded with ripe raspberries.  After stuffing our face with these sweet little things we decided it would be cool to pick some for later munching.  Placing about one-half pint in a nalgeen bottle we reluctantly moved forward.

At about 9 miles into the day we came upon a dirt road.  Rocket Rick was waiting for us since he completely missed the raspberry opportunity.  While he was waiting for us a kid on a motorcycle pulled up and told him to stop by at the Cloudland Farm .2 mile up the road.  We were disappointed when we walked up the hill only to find that the farm store was closed; but thanks to Rick's conversation with the kid on the bike, they knew we were coming and they opened it up for us.  The store was in a bring new country-style building with a huge wrap around porch sprinkled with rocking chairs.  We unload our packs, purchase a few home brewed sodas and made up our sandwiches with the fresh bread, tomatos and chicken we purchased a few hours before.  Yum!

We topped it off with a pint of homemade vanilla ice cream and our fresh picked raspberrites.  Double YUM!  As we were sitting on the porch contemplating the weather and life in general while devouring another pint of ice cream, the owner of the place drifted by and started chatting.  He must have taken a liking to us for some reason because before we knew it we were pitching our tents under two large pine trees next to the barn (on the other side of the pigs and next to the chickens) and preparing our dinner on their picnic table, which ended up including 1lb of fresh roast beef from the farm - given to us to enjoy.  What a life!

The next morning we ate a few organic pop tarts we scarfed up from the hiker box and the Inn on the Long Trail and headed out early for a long day into Hanover, NH.  At 7:00 am we came across a cooler full of Corona beer, with limes.  Took us about two seconds to conclude we couldn't pass up this trail magic even at this hour.  Three miles later we walked through West Hartford and came across a general store serving up breakfast...had to take advantage of this great experience as well...but passed on the ice cream.

Making our way across the bridge crossing the Connecticutt River into Hanover we noticed a roped off area along the shore that looked very much like a great place to take a quick swim.  Hiking down the road we discover that it's only for Dartmouth students and faculty; undeterred, we hiked further down the river to the Dartmouth Rowing Club...another blue-blooded snub.  One more trek down the river to the Dartmouth Canoe Club (the meatballs of Dartmouth) they said no swimming allowed with a "wink" which meant we stripped down, ran down the dock and dove into the river for a fresh swim.

What a great way to leave Vermont and come into New Hampshire!

My AT Journey Began in Vermont 6 Years Ago...

Over this past week and one-half I took the 145 mile track through Vermont, from Massachusetts, making my way into New Hampshire.  It was in Vermont, on the Long Trail with Paul Roebber, that planted a seed in my mind to take this 2,181 mile trek.  At that time I was a tired overweight executive thinking that my chances of having a heart attack on the six day backpacking trip from Stratton Mtn. to Rutland was pretty darn good.  But I thought I would give it a try and during the week with Paul I discovered what a thru-hiker was.

My first introduction to an AT thru-hiker was on that part of the trail in Vermont following the Long Trail (the oldest long distant trail in the country).  Paul and I did what we thought was a grueling 12 mile hike (by-passing Stratton Mtn.) up to my first shelter experience at Spruce Peak Shelter.  There I was introduced to the rough edges of shelter living (actually this is a pretty nice shelter) and several AT thru-hikers.  I was fasinated by this concept of hiking from Georgia to Maine; they were a pretty beat up group of hikers focused on getting food in their tank, finding their space in the shelter and checking out the shelter journal.  Listening to them talking as they read the shelter journal gave me a small hint of the importance of community on the trail.  The hikers were excited to read about how their buddies ahead of them were doing, where they were and to get the news up and down the trail.

It did not occur to me then that I would be following their same steps six years later.  While we weren't going to settle in to Spruce Peak Shelter, I just had to stop in to check it out.  The memories flooded in as I worked my way down the steep trail to the shelter.  I came across the fire ring that Paul and I sat around as we listened to the stories of the thru-hikers.  I sat on the porch of the shelter and had my picture taken, just as I had taken a picture of the thru-hikers that night.  I remembered how I thought the shelter was such a dump, but looking at it now I realized just how cool it was - four walls with a wood stove!  I ran down the hill to look at the area Paul and I pitched our tents for the first night - I remembered so clearly where I pitched my tent and the fire I made so I could have a hot breakfast in the morning.

This experience at Spruce Peak Shelter began memory lane for me over the next several days as I retraced my steps, recollecting the bridges over the rushing streams, the muddy and root-studded path, the swimming holes, the other shelters, Killington Mountain (we has a great view this time) and finally the Inn at the Long Trail where we met Paul's wife and kids picked us up (they couldn't stand our smell). This time, I ended up staying at the Inn as a seasoned thru-hiker on my way to the Whites, enjoying more than just a few great beers.

This little stretch has so many emotions for me not only because it retraces a beginning for me, but it also ties me to a good friend who got me on my way to good health through exercise, while he fights like a true champion to overcome some pretty significant odds back to good health. 

Love ya' Paul

Is it Legal Hitch Hiking for a Ride on a Party Barge?

We were all settling in after a swim in the lake a beautiful shelter on Upper Goose Pond in MA when we watch a party barge maneuver toward our dock.  This is not a common episode given the fact that the shelter is tucked deep into the woods and there are few boats on this lake.  Recognizing how a party barge is properly equipped, I worked my way down to the dock for a hello and a little "yogi" work. 

The crew on the boat was a mixed bag and a little confusing.  Three of the boat mates looked like the typical party animals, beers in hand and in dockers, etc.  Two others smelled and looked alot like me.  Long story short, Scavenger (from Germany) and Amish were dutifully hiking the AT on the south side of the lake and thought it would be fun if they could do a little "aqua blazing".  They noted the party barge passing by and stuck out there thumb and got a ride.

I figured this group might have a few more beers so I started talking about what I missed more than anything else on the trail, a cold beer.  It took Jean about two seconds to hit the cooler and load up a bag full of everything they had left, which included beer, sodas and water.  Of course, I feigned that I couldn't take their last stash from the cooler as I was quickly reaching over the bow for the bag, thanking them and running up the hill to the shelter before they changed their mind (one lady was quite upset that Jean gave me the premium beer).

Great trail magic!

It's a Beautiful Thing...When You Hitch a Ride in a Red Convertible...

It's a 5 mile jaunt into Manchester Center so there are no options but to hitch hike to town.  Thru-hikers are told that Manchester Center is a "hiker-friendly" town so hitch hiking should be no problem.

Dropping off the trail onto Hwy 11 I was a little concerned because the traffic travels fast around a sweeping curve, with little time for them to see us and little room to pull over.

No problem for us; third car by is a red 1974 Olds Cutlass convertible in mint condition.  At first, I thought the two guys in the front seat were swerving toward us to give us a scare (not uncommon), but they pulled over down the road as we scrambled with our packs, poles and muddy boats (yes, Virginia, Vermont is made of mud!).

After some effort to kick the mud off our boots and squeeze packs and bodies into the back seat of the convertible we were off.  The two in front looked like decent guys so I asked the driver what year the car is...said he wasn't sure because it was his wife's.  Thought that was strange, but, what the heck.  Also noticed that the passenger had a ball cap with the words "It's a Beautiful Mind" printed on the back. 

Decided to ask him if he saw the move as we were working our way off the mountain.  His comment: "Yep, I wrote it."  Of course, I thought he was joking, but he went on to say that his buddy was in the movie.  His buddy said, "yeah, I was Russell Crow's imaginary friend. He said his wife also was in the movie and the reason he has the car is because Russell Crowe bought it for his wife with the expectation that she would provide special favors, if you know what I mean...

Who are these guys? Paul Bettany is the actor, Jennifer Connelly is his wife and the screen writer is Akiva Goldsman.  What I think is even cooler is that Paul Bettany was the actor that played the albino monk in the movie Da Vinci Code!

Two regular guys going in to town to pick up some groceries for the family, decide to pick up some famous thru-hikers...these guys couldn't believe what we were doing when we told them...thought we were something else...we thought they were famous and took a picture of them...hmmm, they didn't ask for our autograph or anything...

Quick Update: In Manchester Center - Mile 1,643!

Today is July 6th and I am now 75% of the way through my journey, having traveled 1,643 miles with 537 miles to go.  I am stopping in at Manchester Center for a resupply and a well-needed nero.  Thanks to a terrific tip from Nero, I am staying at the Green Mountain House, a wonderful hiker hostel especially built for thru-hikers by Jeff & Regina Taussig.  It's a wonderful home for hikers seek peace, quiet, laundry and a soft bed.  It's particularly comforting given the incredible thunderstorm of last night, coupled with all of the raging mosquitos.

The picture is of me getting ready to serve up a 12 egg frittata I made up for Firefly, Rocket Rick and myself...thanks to the great kitchen at the hostel.

Will get back at it tomorrow as I journey toward Hanover, NH to meet my son, Ben, who will be joining me on my journey through the Whites.  I can't wait!

Message to Rocket Rick

RR - FF lost her phone so text me at 414-217-8595.

MA is Great! Stayed at Upper Goose Pond Shelter Last Night

Quick update: mile marker 1540 on my way to Mt. Greylock in next few days...hope to watch 4th of July fireworks from lodge Sunday evening.

Expect to be in Vermont around Monday or Tuesday then will begin to feel like I am in final major leg of hike.

Not much time for stories, but weather has been not too bad, bugs ok, cool evenings, and terrain challenging as we progress into NE reducing daily mileage. Bumping into old friends (burley, out due to lime disease, Maine boys, Ryan) and new (beer hunter, Bean, Curmudgeon, Spike and others).

Feet are constantly numb but otherwise pretty good.