Vermont Delivers Trail Magic on Steroids

You've read about trail magic - not much of it in the north until recently when we had a whole string of opportunities and good fortune.

It all started as we headed out of Winturri Shelter on July 12th.  Having an early morning breakfast of instant oatmeal in a packet we were planning on completing either a 12 mile or 18 mile day depending on weather and ambition.  Three miles in we came to a road crossing with a farmer's market .2 of a mile down the road.  We hiked down the road, betting there at 8:30 only to find that it did not open until 10:00 am.  Knowing that this was an important ice cream opportunity it took us about 5 seconds to debate and conclude that it was critical for us to hang around until 10:00 am. Easy decision.

At about 9:15 a nice lady pulls up in her car, said she noticed our presence as she was driving by and cut her trip to the bank short to open up early for us.  One pint of ice cream, a soda, and the purchase of lunch items (a fresh tomato, fresh smoked chicken breast and home made bread) got us on our way back to the trail.

Six miles into the day we came on top of hill loaded with ripe raspberries.  After stuffing our face with these sweet little things we decided it would be cool to pick some for later munching.  Placing about one-half pint in a nalgeen bottle we reluctantly moved forward.

At about 9 miles into the day we came upon a dirt road.  Rocket Rick was waiting for us since he completely missed the raspberry opportunity.  While he was waiting for us a kid on a motorcycle pulled up and told him to stop by at the Cloudland Farm .2 mile up the road.  We were disappointed when we walked up the hill only to find that the farm store was closed; but thanks to Rick's conversation with the kid on the bike, they knew we were coming and they opened it up for us.  The store was in a bring new country-style building with a huge wrap around porch sprinkled with rocking chairs.  We unload our packs, purchase a few home brewed sodas and made up our sandwiches with the fresh bread, tomatos and chicken we purchased a few hours before.  Yum!

We topped it off with a pint of homemade vanilla ice cream and our fresh picked raspberrites.  Double YUM!  As we were sitting on the porch contemplating the weather and life in general while devouring another pint of ice cream, the owner of the place drifted by and started chatting.  He must have taken a liking to us for some reason because before we knew it we were pitching our tents under two large pine trees next to the barn (on the other side of the pigs and next to the chickens) and preparing our dinner on their picnic table, which ended up including 1lb of fresh roast beef from the farm - given to us to enjoy.  What a life!

The next morning we ate a few organic pop tarts we scarfed up from the hiker box and the Inn on the Long Trail and headed out early for a long day into Hanover, NH.  At 7:00 am we came across a cooler full of Corona beer, with limes.  Took us about two seconds to conclude we couldn't pass up this trail magic even at this hour.  Three miles later we walked through West Hartford and came across a general store serving up breakfast...had to take advantage of this great experience as well...but passed on the ice cream.

Making our way across the bridge crossing the Connecticutt River into Hanover we noticed a roped off area along the shore that looked very much like a great place to take a quick swim.  Hiking down the road we discover that it's only for Dartmouth students and faculty; undeterred, we hiked further down the river to the Dartmouth Rowing Club...another blue-blooded snub.  One more trek down the river to the Dartmouth Canoe Club (the meatballs of Dartmouth) they said no swimming allowed with a "wink" which meant we stripped down, ran down the dock and dove into the river for a fresh swim.

What a great way to leave Vermont and come into New Hampshire!

My AT Journey Began in Vermont 6 Years Ago...

Over this past week and one-half I took the 145 mile track through Vermont, from Massachusetts, making my way into New Hampshire.  It was in Vermont, on the Long Trail with Paul Roebber, that planted a seed in my mind to take this 2,181 mile trek.  At that time I was a tired overweight executive thinking that my chances of having a heart attack on the six day backpacking trip from Stratton Mtn. to Rutland was pretty darn good.  But I thought I would give it a try and during the week with Paul I discovered what a thru-hiker was.

My first introduction to an AT thru-hiker was on that part of the trail in Vermont following the Long Trail (the oldest long distant trail in the country).  Paul and I did what we thought was a grueling 12 mile hike (by-passing Stratton Mtn.) up to my first shelter experience at Spruce Peak Shelter.  There I was introduced to the rough edges of shelter living (actually this is a pretty nice shelter) and several AT thru-hikers.  I was fasinated by this concept of hiking from Georgia to Maine; they were a pretty beat up group of hikers focused on getting food in their tank, finding their space in the shelter and checking out the shelter journal.  Listening to them talking as they read the shelter journal gave me a small hint of the importance of community on the trail.  The hikers were excited to read about how their buddies ahead of them were doing, where they were and to get the news up and down the trail.

It did not occur to me then that I would be following their same steps six years later.  While we weren't going to settle in to Spruce Peak Shelter, I just had to stop in to check it out.  The memories flooded in as I worked my way down the steep trail to the shelter.  I came across the fire ring that Paul and I sat around as we listened to the stories of the thru-hikers.  I sat on the porch of the shelter and had my picture taken, just as I had taken a picture of the thru-hikers that night.  I remembered how I thought the shelter was such a dump, but looking at it now I realized just how cool it was - four walls with a wood stove!  I ran down the hill to look at the area Paul and I pitched our tents for the first night - I remembered so clearly where I pitched my tent and the fire I made so I could have a hot breakfast in the morning.

This experience at Spruce Peak Shelter began memory lane for me over the next several days as I retraced my steps, recollecting the bridges over the rushing streams, the muddy and root-studded path, the swimming holes, the other shelters, Killington Mountain (we has a great view this time) and finally the Inn at the Long Trail where we met Paul's wife and kids picked us up (they couldn't stand our smell). This time, I ended up staying at the Inn as a seasoned thru-hiker on my way to the Whites, enjoying more than just a few great beers.

This little stretch has so many emotions for me not only because it retraces a beginning for me, but it also ties me to a good friend who got me on my way to good health through exercise, while he fights like a true champion to overcome some pretty significant odds back to good health. 

Love ya' Paul

Is it Legal Hitch Hiking for a Ride on a Party Barge?

We were all settling in after a swim in the lake a beautiful shelter on Upper Goose Pond in MA when we watch a party barge maneuver toward our dock.  This is not a common episode given the fact that the shelter is tucked deep into the woods and there are few boats on this lake.  Recognizing how a party barge is properly equipped, I worked my way down to the dock for a hello and a little "yogi" work. 

The crew on the boat was a mixed bag and a little confusing.  Three of the boat mates looked like the typical party animals, beers in hand and in dockers, etc.  Two others smelled and looked alot like me.  Long story short, Scavenger (from Germany) and Amish were dutifully hiking the AT on the south side of the lake and thought it would be fun if they could do a little "aqua blazing".  They noted the party barge passing by and stuck out there thumb and got a ride.

I figured this group might have a few more beers so I started talking about what I missed more than anything else on the trail, a cold beer.  It took Jean about two seconds to hit the cooler and load up a bag full of everything they had left, which included beer, sodas and water.  Of course, I feigned that I couldn't take their last stash from the cooler as I was quickly reaching over the bow for the bag, thanking them and running up the hill to the shelter before they changed their mind (one lady was quite upset that Jean gave me the premium beer).

Great trail magic!

It's a Beautiful Thing...When You Hitch a Ride in a Red Convertible...

It's a 5 mile jaunt into Manchester Center so there are no options but to hitch hike to town.  Thru-hikers are told that Manchester Center is a "hiker-friendly" town so hitch hiking should be no problem.

Dropping off the trail onto Hwy 11 I was a little concerned because the traffic travels fast around a sweeping curve, with little time for them to see us and little room to pull over.

No problem for us; third car by is a red 1974 Olds Cutlass convertible in mint condition.  At first, I thought the two guys in the front seat were swerving toward us to give us a scare (not uncommon), but they pulled over down the road as we scrambled with our packs, poles and muddy boats (yes, Virginia, Vermont is made of mud!).

After some effort to kick the mud off our boots and squeeze packs and bodies into the back seat of the convertible we were off.  The two in front looked like decent guys so I asked the driver what year the car is...said he wasn't sure because it was his wife's.  Thought that was strange, but, what the heck.  Also noticed that the passenger had a ball cap with the words "It's a Beautiful Mind" printed on the back. 

Decided to ask him if he saw the move as we were working our way off the mountain.  His comment: "Yep, I wrote it."  Of course, I thought he was joking, but he went on to say that his buddy was in the movie.  His buddy said, "yeah, I was Russell Crow's imaginary friend. He said his wife also was in the movie and the reason he has the car is because Russell Crowe bought it for his wife with the expectation that she would provide special favors, if you know what I mean...

Who are these guys? Paul Bettany is the actor, Jennifer Connelly is his wife and the screen writer is Akiva Goldsman.  What I think is even cooler is that Paul Bettany was the actor that played the albino monk in the movie Da Vinci Code!

Two regular guys going in to town to pick up some groceries for the family, decide to pick up some famous thru-hikers...these guys couldn't believe what we were doing when we told them...thought we were something else...we thought they were famous and took a picture of them...hmmm, they didn't ask for our autograph or anything...

Quick Update: In Manchester Center - Mile 1,643!

Today is July 6th and I am now 75% of the way through my journey, having traveled 1,643 miles with 537 miles to go.  I am stopping in at Manchester Center for a resupply and a well-needed nero.  Thanks to a terrific tip from Nero, I am staying at the Green Mountain House, a wonderful hiker hostel especially built for thru-hikers by Jeff & Regina Taussig.  It's a wonderful home for hikers seek peace, quiet, laundry and a soft bed.  It's particularly comforting given the incredible thunderstorm of last night, coupled with all of the raging mosquitos.

The picture is of me getting ready to serve up a 12 egg frittata I made up for Firefly, Rocket Rick and myself...thanks to the great kitchen at the hostel.

Will get back at it tomorrow as I journey toward Hanover, NH to meet my son, Ben, who will be joining me on my journey through the Whites.  I can't wait!

Message to Rocket Rick

RR - FF lost her phone so text me at 414-217-8595.

MA is Great! Stayed at Upper Goose Pond Shelter Last Night

Quick update: mile marker 1540 on my way to Mt. Greylock in next few days...hope to watch 4th of July fireworks from lodge Sunday evening.

Expect to be in Vermont around Monday or Tuesday then will begin to feel like I am in final major leg of hike.

Not much time for stories, but weather has been not too bad, bugs ok, cool evenings, and terrain challenging as we progress into NE reducing daily mileage. Bumping into old friends (burley, out due to lime disease, Maine boys, Ryan) and new (beer hunter, Bean, Curmudgeon, Spike and others).

Feet are constantly numb but otherwise pretty good.