A Few Moments and Memories of the Trail...

You are more than welcome to scan through this long blog...it's more for posterity than anything else.  It's a series of events on the trail that I most remember...some interesting, some not so...

Georgia

·         Of Course, My First Day. Not exactly my first day, but the day before and the day I hopped on the trail.  Taking the subway from the Atlanta airport to the most northern stop I meet Gypsy Girl, Free Fall and Kirsten (Ensted).  Free Fall has extensive experience in long distance hiking, Gypsy Girl, a 62 year old woman from Australian, is attempting the hike again after breaking her leg last year (she made it all the way to Mt. Washington) and Kirsten is from New Zealand and an avid long distant hiker.  As an overweight executive I wonder what I am doing.  I arrive at the hiker hostel to find most of the hikers there just jumped off the trail to regroup from a major winter storm.  Andy, soon to be Malarkey, is one of those hikers. The next day Andy gets dropped off where he left off and I get dropped off on the trailhead…alone, cold and scared.  I concluded this was a big mistake but I have to stay out at least for a week to save face.

·         A Conversation with Luke (Hermes) On the Trail. Hermes is a young man from the University of Vermont, a very strong hiker and an all around good kid.  I met him on my second day as he was fixing breakfast at the side of the trail (I would steal this approach to breakfast).  Later, he caught up with me – and hiked with me for most of the day. This young man set my mind at ease and gave me confidence that I needed at that time.

·         My Blisters. After a steep climb I show up at Tray Mountain Shelter, set up my tent and peel my socks and boots off only to find two huge blisters.  Around the campfire I meet Jake (OTT), Battle Cat and others.  They all notice my blisters and conclude that there the worst on the trail.  I go to bed depressed and wondering whether I will survive, then to wake up totally drenched from a big thunderstorm.  My blisters would become the talk of the trail but they did not slow me down.

·         Meeting Rocket Rick and Firefly at the Blueberry Patch.  My first hitchhike experience was with Dave (Super Dave).  We got dropped off at the Blueberry Patch, a hiker hostel, and met Rocket Rick and Firefly, two hikers who had already established themselves as uber-hikers because of the big miles they were piling on.  RR would leave the trail at Newfound Gap with a hairline fracture and I began hiking with Firefly that same day (RR would meet up with us in Vermont to finish his journey to Katahdin).

North Carolina

·         Charlie Brown Giving Me Some Company.  During the first week, I showed up at Siler Bald Shelter early and alone, nervous about being the only person at the shelter. Made it even more unsettling when a strange and scary guy hiking the trail with a bike came by.  Fortunately, Charlie Brown showed up, giving me the security I needed at that time.  Charlie Brown would soon get off the trail due to an injury and lack of conviction.

·         In Heaven on Rocky Top in the Smokies.  One of the most magical moments on the trail for me was absorbing the incredible views on top of Rocky Top.  I left Russell Field Shelter early in the morning and was able to get up to the top shortly after sunrise.  The clouds were nestled into the mountains below as the sun was shining brightly above.  The light, the color and expansive views made me feel like I was in heaven.  Not seeing other hikers on the ridge, I yelled out the famous refrain from Woodstock, “We must be in heaven, man”.  Indeed!  The next day I was to summit Clingmans Dome in a downpour of rain and sleet, shrouded in fog and clouds.

·         Gary Hilton, the AT Serial Killer.  I was settling in at the Plumorchard Shelter, along with Moonshine, Holly and her dog, Darcy.  Skid shows up and introduces himself as T.J. Forester.  I said that sounds like a great name for a writer.  He said he was and that he walks the trail for ideas, etc.  I talked about bumping into a homeless person with two pit bulls at Woods Hole Shelter.  Holly mentions she is hiking with her dog in memory of her parents who were murdered on the trail three years earlier.  Skid knows the whole story about her parents and the murder of a young woman on Blood Mountain.  Makes for an unsettling evening thinking of the murders and the homeless person with the pit bulls that he was “rehabilitating”.

Tennessee

·         Peoples Paradise. There is a section of the trail in Tennessee that is maintained by Bob Peoples.  The trail weaves through waterfalls, a large stream, a mountain and a huge lake with a dam.  Part of the trail is difficult but thanks to Bob’s efforts we were fortunate to have rare switchbacks and beautifully constructed boulder steps along the way.  I felt like I was walking through paradise.

Virginia

·         Climb to Roan Mtn. Kicked My Butt and Smashed My Nose. Don’t know why, but I will never forget the last part of my day on our way to Roan High Knob Shelter.  It was only a 16 mile day, but was made up of lots of stuff, including the final stretch up Roan Knob.  The day started off well with trail magic from Mango at a road crossing.  About 75 yards away was the early scene of an accident where a car flipped over; the emergency crews were trying to get a badly injured driver out of the car and to the hospital.  Back on the trail, I had my first of several encounters with a “leaner”, splitting open a gash in my nose making a bloody mess of myself.  Cleaned up, the final leg of the day was extremely hard for me.  The elevation gain was 2,200 feet over 3 miles, not too bad, but I fell behind, and for the first time my legs felt weak and wobbly.  I truly didn’t think I would make it.  I did, had a great conversation with some weekend hikers and made my way to the shelter. A nice evening around the campfire with Cornell, Tree Thug, Firefly, Estero and a few others got me back on track again.

·         Wildflowers in Virginia.  One disappointment on the trail was the lack of fauna.  There was very little of it during the first month because it was still winter.  The wilderness seemed to be void of any color; the trees were barren and the forest floor was all rock, fallen trees and dead leaves.  Once we entered Virginia we noticed a change, almost overnight.  The forest floor was coming to life with small flowers and fern sprouts; Leaves started to bud on some of the trees.  As we hiked up and down the mountains (two or three times in a day) we noticed different flowers at the various elevations.  We could almost predict the elevation by the stage of growth and type of flower. Over the coming weeks the vegetation exploded and before we knew it we had a full canopy above us and fields of wild flowers and ferns at our feet.  Unfortunately we missed the beauty of the tunnels of rhododendrons blooming in Georgia and North Carolina but experienced our fair share of Mountain Laurels in full bloom.

·         Karaoke at the Pizza Inn. Damascus is a special hiker town, but sprinkle in Karaoke Night at the Pizza Inn and it makes it all the more sweet.  Thru-hikers (especially Triton) belted it out pretty well, but it was the locals who caught my attention.  This is the “big night out” for the locals and they put on quite a show, especially two older gents who could really put it together.  Got exposed to just a little bit of what life must be like in a small town of 1,500 people.

·         Most Challenging Weather: Mt. Rogers & Grayson Highlands. Leaving Damascus we knew that bad weather was coming so Tree Frog, Firefly and I pushed to get to Lost Mountain Shelter.  We settled in for the storm with some section hikers who gave me a full can of fuel and some Trader Joes bananas.  The first storm came in around midnight causing a sleepless night due to wind, rain and falling trees.  We hiked up Mt. Rogers the next day in heavy rain, water rushing everywhere, on the trail and off the mountain; the wind was blowing so hard I could not keep my hood on my head.  The sun came out briefly as we got to Tom Knob Shelter for lunch, watching wild ponies.  That night at Wise Shelter pelting rain turned into snow blowing and whipping into shelter.  It was so cold that my sleeping bag failed, even with multiple layers of clothes.  Knocking the ice and snow off our bags, boots and socks, we got an early start hoping it would warm us up.  It got worse as we hiked in a wide open expanse down to The Scales.  Wind was the strongest I ever experienced on the trail; we had to forcefully move forward with each step.  It was bitterly cold and windy but once we got back into the woods the sun came out, the wind calmed down and the snow melted.  Terrain was beautiful and lush…like traveling from North Pole to the tropics in a matter of a few hours!

·         Reunion at Chestnut Knob Shelter.  After two days off the trail to attend a Board Meeting I hopped back on the trail in Atkins, VA.  I was all alone and figured that most of my hiking buddies were well north of me.  With fresh legs I made pretty good time reaching my intended destination by 3:15. Reviewing the shelter log I realized that Shoofly, Nero, Malarkey, the Minstrels, Maniac, John Wayne, Hazard and Burley had just passed through, headed to the next shelter.  Knowing that another 9 miles would reunite me with the gang I impulsively decided to push on.  It was a gutsy move for me because it would make for a 23 mile day (longest to this point) and it was uphill in rain and fog.  Up the mountain I was convinced I had made a bad mistake when I ran out of water and lost track of where I was due to the dense fog and rain.  I found a pool of water full of tadpoles, filled up my Gatorade bottle and moved forward looking for a campsite, thinking I wasn’t going to make it.  Then, off in the distant I saw the shadowy outline of two figures dragging what looked like a log.  As I approached closer I see the dull flicker of a flame, realizing that I was at the shelter. The Minstrels hollered out, “Crankdaddy”.  I knew I was home.  Crashing into the fully enclosed shelter, high fives and hugs were had.  I had not seen this gang for several weeks and it was great to have some hiking buddies to hang with again.

·         My First Slack into Pearisburg. There is a 10 mile stretch between Woods Hole and Pearisburg that is relatively flat and straightforward.  A bunch of us got the notion that it would be fun to stay and Woods Hole one more night and slack into Pearisburg for drinks and resupply.  This little hike was one of the most uplifting days on the trail for me.  I started off before others assuming that I would be the slowest.  Before I knew it I found myself skipping along the trail having a blast.  Eventually, Nero, Shoofly and Jukebox met up with me.  Caught up in the joy of slacking, we began running down the switchbacks, all the way into town, completing the ten miles well under three hours.  It was a joyful morning topped off with Mexican food and margaritas!

·         A Great Cheeseburger and Two Peach Cobblers with Ice Cream at Jerry’s.  Having survived the awful rain/sleet/snow storm and blistering wind of the Grayson Highlands, Tree Frog, Firefly and I decided it would be good to take a break from the trail and stop at Jerry’s, a diner known for great food.  Not only did I have one of the best cheese burgers ever, I was treated to a freshly baked (even had to wait 20 minutes) peach cobbler with ice cream that was the best ever.  It was so good, I ordered another.

 

·         Two Hikes with Sprocket and Inchworm.  We had bumped into this couple several times along the way but did not have the opportunity to hike with them until our hike into Waynesboro, VA.  Sprocket is a walking encyclopedia on all things nature, describing the surrounding plant and animal life and the geography.  He is well versed in this arena and is an avid ultra-light hiker with strong views.  As a surveyor in the real world his credentials were pretty sound.  They were two of several hikers I met along the way that thought it was a frivolous exercise to filter water; they also resupplied with fresh meat, packing it in for several days with no worry of it spoiling.  There logic about food and water was sound but not something I wanted to pursue.  When I told him that I have had great angst about poison ivy and was having a hard time identifying it he stopped on the trail, grabbed the leaf of a plant next to my feet and said this is poison ivy.  I asked him why he had it in his hand; he said he doesn’t get it on his hand and went into a discourse of where, when and how you are most likely to get it and why.  We bumped into them once again headed to Atkins, VA. 

·         Slack Packing the Three Ridges to the Priests. One of my favorite hiker hostels was the Dutch Haus in Montebello, VA.  The problem is that it’s located down a steep and long hike off the trail (thru-hikers hate hikes off the trail).  It was heaven to stay there but the notion of hiking back up the hill to begin our day steered us into slack packing north to south back to the Dutch Haus (hiking down the hill again, to avoid the uphill climb to the trailhead).  It was a 20 mile slack going south beginning just north of Three Ridges Mountain.  The day encompassed a challenging and steep 3,000 foot rocky decent to Cripple Creek with a 3,000 foot ascent up to the Priest.  Going southbound, we met much of the gang heading northbound; each one of them cautioned us about the challenge up the Priest.  We were nervous about this climb because the scramble down Three Ridges was murder.   As it turned out, the Priest ascent was tame in comparison to the descent of Three Ridges – we should have been the ones warning our friends of the climb up Three Ridges!  The worst of the Priest was the final five miles of ups and downs to Spy Rock because we kept thinking it was over; regardless, we were rewarded with a wonderful view on top of Spy Rock prior to our hike back down the trail to the Dutch Haus.

Pennsylvania

·         Chilling on Hot Days in Pennsylvania.  Hot and humid days in PA meant hiking early, chilling in the heat of the day and hiking late into the evening.  One of my favorite times on the trail was chilling at Eckville Shelter, beginning with a quick stop at Gold Spring for a good soak (the water was incredibly cold and refreshing).  We hung out all afternoon on the shady grass with Crazy Goose and Puddle Duck and as Padre, Dead Man and Blue arrived we ordered out pizza.  Never having one before, I ordered a Stromboli, thinking it was a single serving.  It was large enough to feed at least five hikers.  Blue, Padre, Deadman and others joined me in the effort.  Crazy Goose, Puddle Duck, Firefly and I hung around after dinner waiting for a big storm to pass; we finally got tired of waiting and headed out; of course, it immediately began to rain and we ended up stealth camping at Dans Spring.

·         Everything about the Allenberry.  The trail was tough in Pennsylvania because of the terrain, rocks and heat. However, the towns were great.  Boiling Springs is a quaint town with a small spring fed lake right in the center.  The Allenberry Resort & Playhouse is not your typical hiker spot but it had both air conditioning and a pool.  There were about ten of us that decided to zero here to enjoy the pool, theatre and pub.  Locals also have club memberships for access to the pool, etc., so it was great fun to watch the big bearded boys (Burley, Juke Box, Malarkey, Colonel, etc.) having noodle battles in the pool as young moms with toddlers looked on in aghast.  The topper was when Firefly decided to take a dip, stripping down to her sports bra and underwear (did not pack a swim suit).  Between the pool, the pub and the theatre experience with the older ladies it was quite a break from the brutal PA trail.

·         Be Careful, There’s a Venomous Snake Ahead. Working our way through a popular stretch of Virginia we were pushing up a mountain when we came across a lone young boy about 10 years of age, hiking stick in hand, and trekking with great determination.  As we passed he stopped to tell us, “be careful, there’s a venomous snake ahead.  I leaped out of the way when it tried to strike me…I just think you should know.”  Of course, we appreciated his warning and we took heed.  But what struck me were two things: this young boy was hiking alone; and, he had a great sense of confidence and used words I can’t even pronounce (venomous).  As it turns out, he was not hiking alone but was well ahead of his parents.  After explaining our exchange, his father sighed in a proud kind of way and said, “Yep that would be my son…”  Quite a kid!

·         Lunches on Rock Outcroppings.  Most of our lunches were had at mid-hike shelters because they always seemed to be good halfway points and water was readily available.  Reflecting back, I wish that we had not been too focused on shelter destinations because our most enjoyable lunches happened to be on rock outcroppings looking over the valley.  There weren’t many of them, but the few times we came across a sunny rock ledge with a view it was always a wonderful experience.

·         Stealth Tenting Below a Fire Tower.  Heading back into the hills in the early evening after a big rainfall and steak dinner at a restaurant off the trail we were headed to a shelter on the other side of a steep climb.  At the summit prior to the decent to the shelter stood a fire tower with a beautiful view of the distance mountain range as the sun was setting.  Rather than heading to the shelter we decided to stealth tent at the tower, watching the tail end of the storm pass and the sun set into the mountain range.  We woke up to a beautiful morning watching the sunrise during our oatmeal breakfast.

·         The Day at Pine Grove Furnace State Park.  This is the place in Pennsylvania with the half gallon ice cream challenge, marking the halfway point of the AT. It was brutally hot and we were originally planning on staying at the state park.  As it happens, a bunch of us showed up, including Burley, Jukebox, Malarkey, Shepherd, The Colonel, Firefly and Charlie.  All who attempted the challenge succeeded (my half gallon of Mint Chocolate was consumed in less than 45 minutes).  Afterward we took a quick tour of the AT Museum and then made our way to the beach along a small spring fed lake.  We spent most of the very hot day hanging out in the water with the locals before Firefly and I decided to head out at 6:00 pm to a shelter 7 miles away, covering the mileage in just over two hours to meet up with Charlie and a couple of section hikers. We put in over 17 miles that day, even with a six hour break at the park.  I felt like a thru-hiker!  Prior to this, I could not have imagined consuming a half gallon of ice cream, inhaling two cheeseburgers and fries hiking 17 miles with a six hour break in between.

New York

·         Strolling Through Harriman State Park in New York.  Harriman State Park was what I was expecting the Shenandoah’s to be…a well groomed trail through a beautiful forest.  The trees were not as dense as they had been up to this point and the forest floor was lush with ferns and flowers.  It was a welcome reprieve from the miles and miles of the dark and dreary “green tunnel”.  The climbs were steep, rocky and challenging but fun because of the complexity; it wasn’t just all straight up, but in, over, around and through.

Vermont

·         Picking Raspberries and Eating Them with Homemade Ice Cream.  Planning on a long day with a break at Cloudland Farm in the middle of the day, we reached Dana Hill mid-morning.  Rocket Rick, Firefly and I had been hiking with a mother-son section hiker team and as we were walking along the roller coaster ridge we came across a field of raspberry bushes.  Rocket Rick either did not see the raspberries or chose to move on.   Our original intent was to pick and eat on the way but since there were so many Firefly, the section hikers and I thought it would be fun to pick some for later.  We filled a Nalgen bottle and finally forced ourselves off the hill and down to the gap to hike to the farmhouse for an early lunch.  When we got down to the road, Rocket Rick was waiting for us not knowing what we were doing.  We hiked up the road to Cloudland Farm only to find they also sold very fresh homemade ice cream.  Before we knew it, we were enjoying one of the best treats I had on the trail – best ice cream on the trail, topped with fresh picked raspberries!  We ended up making it a short day after the owner of the farm offered us a tent spot next to his barn.  His family manages 1,000 acres of land; he just happens to know David Ulien!

·         The Day I Felt Like a Thru-Hiker.  Maybe it wasn’t a particular day, but certain points along the way.  There comes a point in time where you are comfortable acknowledging to others that you are doing a thru-hike.   I can remember a mountain in New York we reached, shed our packs and bound up to the top of a large rock where there was a couple on a day hike.  They immediately picked us out as thru-hikers and were excited to visit with us; this conversation was topped off by a small airplane flying in low, shutting the engine off temporarily to yell down “good luck” to us.  Even up in the sky the people in this small plane could see we were thru-hikers and wanted to wish us well.  Certainly hiking through northern New Hampshire and Maine receiving a “congrats” from weekend hikers and south bounders was a nice nod; hiking into the trail towns with the look of a thru-hiker; and, coming into a shelter late in the day, dropping my pack and getting to business always made me feel like I was seasoned and a hiker that earned my stripes.  I guess it was moments of confidence that made me know I was a thru-hiker; as Rocket Rick and Firefly know, there were plenty of times when I doubted myself as well…especially in New Hampshire and southern Maine.

·         July 4^th Dinner in Vermont.  We were disappointed with the terrible weather on Mt. Greylock on July 3^rd, preventing any prospect of watching fireworks from the mountain.  On the 4^th, we hiked down the mountain and walked to the outskirts of Williamstown, MA to a Super Stop ‘n Shop for resupply and lunch.  On an impulse I decided to purchase a pound of cooked shrimp, asking them to pack it in lots of ice; I grabbed a couple of rolls and a bottle of red wine and announced that we would have our own July 4^th celebration at our first shelter in Vermont.  Figured an added three pounds over another 7 miles shouldn’t be a problem.  Unfortunately, it was a very tough 7 mile hike up to the border of Vermont and on to Seth Warner Shelter.  I was swearing at myself until we settled into the shelter, got a fire going, and broke out the wine, fresh rolls and a pound of fresh shrimp with cocktail sauce.  We met our first Long Trail hiker at the shelter, a very nice retired fireman from New York.  He was most interested in us as thru-hikers and we thoroughly enjoyed the conversation as we snacked on shrimp and sipped our red wine.

·         Watching the Storm Come in at Stratton Mountain & Pond.  Stratton Mountain was the point in which I began a hike on the Long Trail several years ago.  Back then, we took a bypass trail because of the difficultly of the hike up the mountain.  It turns out that the hike as not that bad.  Firefly and I did it at the end of a 19 mile day.  We hooked up with Mudflap at the top of the mountain and I scaled the fire tower.  On top I observed a very large and ominous thunderstorm coming our way.  We raced down the mountain in the thunderstorm happy to be off the top because of the lightening.  By the time we got to Stratton Pond Shelter the storm seemed to have passed so we thought it would be great to go for a swim in the pond.  Once at the pond we saw that the previous storm was just a warm up.  I had never seen more threatening thunder clouds in my life, except in movies depicting the end of the world.  Even though the clouds were moving quickly toward us, we decided to get our quick swim in; once out, things got very dark and we ran the quarter mile up the hill to the shelter and made it just in time before the skies crashed and opened up big time.  This was a classic late afternoon thunderstorm in the mountains with the potential to do lots of damage.  Fortunately we decided earlier not to tent because the shelter was so nice.

·          Guinness Beer at the Long Trail Inn. When I hiked the Long Trail several years ago, we ended it at the Long Trail Inn for lunch and a beer at the pub.  I thought that this would be a cool place to spend some time but our visit was cut short.  This time around, we got to the Inn in time to enjoy the pub and spend the night.  The pub is famous for atmosphere, live music and knowing how to pour a great Guinness.  We spent most of our time in the pub and had more than a few Guinness…a great break from the trail! 

·         A Day in Manchester Center.  Don’t know why, but getting a hitchhike into Manchester Center, VT by Paul Bettany in a 1974 Olds Cutlass red convertible set the stage for a fun afternoon.  Getting dropped off in front of the EMS store we spent an hour window shopping and making a few purchases; that effort whet our appetite so we walked over to a pub called Firefly that we just had to check out.  Firefly and I had a great burger and a couple of beers.  For dessert: a walk down the street to Ben & Jerry’s for a very large and delicious ice cream sundae.  Feeling in a mischievous mood, I meandered into the exclusive clothier, Hickey Freeman.  In my previous life, Hickey Freeman was my suit of choice due to quality and fit.  With the look and smell of a seasoned thru-hiker I walked past the sales manager directly to the rack of suits looking for my suit size, a 43R.  Aghast, the salesman watched me pull out a charcoal grey pinstripe off the rack and slip on the suit coat; fit great in the shoulders but very large in the middle.  Firefly takes a quick picture before we get shooed away, mission accomplished!  What could make the day better?  Arriving at Green Mountain House, by far, the best hostel on the trail (includes a pint of Ben & Jerry’s).

New Hampshire

·         The Tree Swing and Swim with My Son. Ben joined us just north of Dartmouth, NH well positioned to fully enjoy the challenge and beauty of the White Mountains.  Our first day was an easy 11 mile day topped off with a stop at a spring fed mountain pond (lake in other states).  Walking along the shoreline in search of a spot for a quick swim we come across a tree with a swing out to the water.  Perfect.  The water was cold and crisp.  We all stripped down, checked the swing out and took a refreshing swim.  It made for a great end-of-the-day adventure for all of us and a bit of an ice breaker for Ben, setting the stage for a terrific week on the trail with him.

·         The Up and Down Challenge of Mount Madison.  The White Mountains were beautiful and the weather afforded us with spectacular views as we hiked through the Presidentials.  Our final big hike with Ben was the up and down of Mount Madison.  The night before we were turned down at the Madison Spring Hut, forced to hike down a steep one-half mile trail to a primitive campsite.  We began the morning with the hike back up to the trailhead to get back to “square one”.  Madison is a very steep climb through one long massive boulder field.  As we gained in elevation the wind started whipping us sideways making each step a forced placement to prevent a devastating fall.  The summit was so windy that the best we could do is take a quick picture and move on.  Looking north, all we could see was the continuation of a wide open boulder field marked with cairns stretching up and down for miles.  Somewhat discouraged by what we had ahead of us, we pressed on, picking our way through the boulders step by step hoping that at some point we would make it safely off the mountain, away from the blasting wind and in the protection of the trees.  We finally did and we were rewarded with a smooth trail down to Pinkham Notch to end Ben’s journey with us.

Maine

·         The Call of the Loons in Maine. One of my favorite recollections of northern Minnesota is listening to the call of the loons on the lake.  It was something that we took for granted and it wasn’t until years later that I realized how pleasant it was.  So I was eager to reach Maine knowing that I could relive this memory.  There were dozens of lakes along the trail and my expectations were high, especially the notion of falling asleep in the evening to the sound of the loons.  The loons were out there, but not to the extent I had hoped.  There were only a few days on the trail where we heard the loons at night and early in the morning.  There’s nothing like it!

·         The Campfire at Pierce Pond Lean-to.  We had a campfire at the shelters probably about 20% of the time – at the most.  Everyone was either too tired or it was too wet and rainy to get a fire going.  Campfires were a special treat and we always enjoyed them because of the warmth, the camaraderie and diminished bugs.  This Lean-to in the Maine Wilderness was right on the spring fed pond with a great view.  After our swim, Firefly made it clear in no uncertain terms that Rocket Rick and I were responsible to collect wood because we were going to have a campfire.  Initially I was not thrilled with the notion because I was tired and I could see that there was little wood around for burning.  Reluctantly I hiked up the hill and into the distant woods and hauled down about three loads of marginally acceptable branches and limbs.  Firefly quickly got to work and before we knew it we had a pleasant fire to sit around while we prepared our dinner.  Subsequently, Cave Man, Twig, Kodiak, Hand-Me-Down and several other thru-hikers were drawn to the shelter to enjoy a swim and the warm fire.  Made for a very pleasant evening!

·         Mountains and Water in Maine.  Southern Maine was at least as tough as New Hampshire; the mountains were straight up and straight down with lots of hand over foot climbing and crawling.  However, we were well rewarded with spectacular views of valleys, mountains and vast lakes and rivers.   Getting to the summit of Bigelow Mtn. West Peak was particularly sweet because it represented the 2,000 milestone.  Water was everywhere, ranging from super warm to ice cold spring fed lakes; streams and rivers were everywhere.  It’s truly a beautiful state.

·         Hearing Burley From Behind, Yelling, “Crankdaddy”.  Firefly, Rocket Rick and I were pumped up with adrenalin working our way up to Mt. Katahdin.  We were hoping we would see some friends along the way but assumed that the “old gang” had reached the summit yesterday (as evidenced by the shelter journals).  About one-third of the way up, I heard a shout out of “Crankdaddy” from behind and shortly thereafter was bear-hugged by Burley and then by Malarkey, followed by Shepherd.  Turns out they got slowed down by yet another zero and we were all able to celebrate the completion of the AT together.  Doesn’t get any sweeter!

·         Reaching Mt. Katahdin. Naturally, this is an event I will remember forever.  It was particularly special because of the friends who were on the summit and the beautiful, sunny weather.  A meaningful part of the trek was far more challenging than we thought it would be but nothing was going to stop us.  The final stretch to the top was relatively easy and wide open making it possible to almost run up to the top.  It was a glorious experience hanging out with fellow thru-hikers on the top, drinking champagne, port, warm beer and scotch whiskey.  Others brought a very fancy meal but Firefly, Rocket Rick and I brought our normal peanut butter on a bagel for which we took a lot of grief.  The hike down for me was probably more emotional because of the realization that I completed my thru-hike and that it was now over.  I tried to take my time wanting it not to end. 

Final Thoughts....and Learnings from the Trail

It's been just a little over a week since I celebrated our summit on Mt. Katahdin and I have spent a fair amount of time trying to assimilate back into the mainstream and do a bit of introspection.  I don't believe I'll know what I learned from my experience on the trail for quite some time, but here are a few of my big "take aways" at the moment:

1. Maintain an Open Mind. This is one of the first big learnings for me on the trail.  Beginning the trail alone was intimidating and unnerving. I'm not exactly an extrovert, so meeting people comes hard for me; getting acquainted with people outside of my typical field of vision is even all the more difficult.  You can imagine there are all sorts of people on the trail - especially in the beginning; very few fall into my typical circle of relationships (business executives, etc.).  Getting past first impressions of tattoos and piercings I discovered that 99% of the people are really good and interesting people. Setting first impressions, quick judgments and nervous notions aside afforded me the opportunity to become part of a close knit and caring community.

2. Keep a Sense of Humor.  I think I will find this important over time because I feel it's a great way to "stay young".  There were numerous times on the trail if I were to take things too seriously I probably would not have made it to Katahdin.  The trail is never easy, just different degrees of difficulty.  Getting completely and entirely soaked by a huge thunderstorm can be a tad discouraging if you can't see the humor in sloshing through the "Appalachian Stream" with water squishing out of your boots with every step;  laughing at the challenge and complexity of some of the straight up technical climbs you must do to move forward seems to be the only way to keep placing your foot forward; the trail delivers a constant barrage of impossibilities and inconveniences that if you let them get in the way, you'll get discouraged very quickly. Laughing at your situation or finding humor on the trail made things fun and not so serious.
3. You Can Do Almost Anything With a Little Bit of Perseverance. This also equates to having a tremendous tolerance for boredom.  I have always believed that I had the unusual ability to execute tedious and boring tasks; the trail can be quite tedious with very little reward.  I believe it was my ability to persevere in the most challenging and tedious of times that helped me have success.  Staying focused and being true to the goal was critical.  I observed far too many hikers begin to lose focus, compromising their ultimate success.  Not giving up, staying upbeat and optimist are critical traits to have when faced with any major challenge or opportunity. 
4. Being Cautious Cuts Both Ways. Friends who know me at home may view me as adventurous.  Friends on the trail saw me as cautious and conservative.  Finding an equilibrium between "going after it" and "covering all the bases" was hard for me and I am still working on it.  I was always overly concerned about running out of food, so I always over packed.  I regret not taking the "Knife's Edge" down from Mt. Katahdin...it would have been a huge reward at the end of the trip - and maybe helped me with my fear of heights.  I did take a few risks which provided great reward - like sliding down a natural waterfall slide (younger kids took a pass), etc., but I also think I was appropriately cautious on some of the more challenging terrains, where foot placement could make or break a hike (literally).  Pushing myself while recognizing some of my limitations is probably the right balance (no more bull riding for me!).

5. It Takes a Community. I have always believed in the importance of community engagement but I experienced just how meaningful it can be by being on the trail.  But for just a small few, I was blown away by the strength support of the community - made up of thru-hikers, section hikers, weekenders, trail angels, trail volunteers and townspeople.  I felt at times that we were treated like royalty by those that supported the trail; fellow thru-hikers always came together when someone was in need of support or advice.  There was little or know divisiveness I experienced, even when shelters were cramped and everyone was soaked to the bone.  The townspeople were caring, supportive, friendly and always went the extra mile.  Being part of a community is wonderful; being part of the AT community is something special.
6. The Trail is a Great Equalizer. Sort of ties to #5, but there is no rank system, no caste system, no org chart and no socioeconomic hierarchy on the trail.  Stepping onto the trail you lose your old identity (no one cares) and everyone is on equal footing.  There are few discussions regarding "what you do" because it's not relevant to who you are on the trail.  The trail strips away all the pretense of position and stature and exposes the world to who you are within.  In some respects it was quite liberating for me!
7. The World Didn't Change With Me Gone (Unfortunately).  While not wanting to sound apathetic, I was not missed due to my lack of engagement in local, state, national and world events; I can assure you that I did not miss it.  As a matter of fact I avoided hearing about the ongoings at all costs; the world (local on up) seems to be very angry and uncivil right now; the trail community came together regardless of political leanings, religion or economics.  My inclination right now is to disengage and separate from all of what I see on the home front until we learn to respect and appreciate each other again. I'm typically optimistic about the future but I have seen people (including friends and family) take issues to the extreme and lose perspective. I know I have been like this in the past (overly focused on work at the expense of friendships) and hope not to make this mistake again.  Makes me want to go back to the simpler life of the trail.
8. Age Doesn't Have to Get in the Way.  Most on the trail were in their early 20s; many were early retirees in their early 50s; few were in their late 50s; virtually all (but me) had some pretty darn good experience completing major outdoor activities (other long distance hikes, climbing 100 peaks, etc.).  I am reasonably active but I am not an avid outdoors person and I am 58 years old.  I discovered that even with these two major handicaps I was able to keep up with the best of them.  Ten years ago I could not have imagined the notion of hiking 2,100 miles at age 58; but having done so - and seeing others on the trail in their 60s is pretty neat.  58 is the new 38!  Age does not have to stand in the way of our aspirations!

9. Renewed Faith in the Younger Generation. Ties to several thoughts above...I have to admit that some of my recent work experiences really got me discouraged with the 20-30 year olds in the workforce.  I got the sense that there is a real strong "entitlement mentality" with very little respect for those with wisdom and knowledge.  The trail was the complete opposite.  I saw young highly talented kids eager to grow, learn and challenge themselves.  I remember watching a couple of them interact with Bob Peoples, knowing that their day long experience with Bob will have a life time impact on them - because they were willing to learn, work hard and respect the knowledge and wisdom of some of the finest people on the trail.  I saw young kids in college strike out on their own and challenge themselves to the max - and of course, have fun along the way; I saw one young angry man learn to "cool down" and manage his emotions.  It was exciting to see these bright and ambitious young people grow on the trail because they were curious, open minded and eager to experience new things. I am optimistic that our world will be in good hands as these young people become our leaders.
10. Simple is Elegant. Ok, I admit it, I was a homeless person for five months...a wandering vagabond.  But, if done right, it's not a bad way to live.  I had on my back everything I needed for a reasonably comfortable living - food, clothing, shelter - and my feet were my wheels.  While I am not ready to give up my BMW and my beautifull home, I have to say that I survived just fine without all of my trappings and my costs were relatively minimal. I didn't even miss indoor plumbing too much; for the most part the privies were just fine (though a hot shower was a real treat in town).  I hope I can keep things simple...life is much easier to manage that way.
11. Nature is a Force to Respect.  Respect in so many ways: it's a force much bigger and more powerful than us.  Exposed and out in the open in everyday thunderstorms made me realize just how vulnerable we are to the force of nature. Seeing the destruction it causes in a forest is amazing; but it also helped me understand the "cycle of life".  It's part of the process of life; you see it everywhere in the forests and mountains, the destruction and regeneration of life.  I also saw what happens if the hand of man upsets this natural cycle.  In Pennsylvania we hiked through Superfund sites still being cleaned up from mining operations; we tented next to very large coal tailings deep in the woods; I was surprised and disappointed at the young age of the trees and lack of undergrowth in the wilderness of Maine due to past logging practices.  It doesn't seem to take much for us to screw up the natural balance of nature. The good news is that it seems to right itself - and pays us back in kind along the way.

12. There's Lots of History in Them-There Woods. Nature tends to soften the edges, but I still saw enough evidence of past generations that makes me want to understand better what it was like for earlier generations to establish a home and fight for what you believed in.  Throughout most of the trail we saw old rock walls from original homesteads, remains of cemeteries, headstones of young men who died during the Civil War and old log homes.  The trail took us past significant "gaps" in the mountains that when discovered by the settlers changed the makeup of the region; towns we visited were strategically located in these gaps, many just barely hanging on today but thrived in a different era.  Lots to go back a rediscover!

13. Ice Cream is Absolutely the Best.  So maybe there is no "take away" here, but I never tired of ice cream, had it every chance I could, at every hour of the day.  The best ice cream, hands down, was in the north where we could walk up a road and stop in at a creamery or a farmer's market and get fresh homemade ice cream - with blueberries.  If not that, there was always Ben & Jerry's.  Hershey's ice cream in the mid-Atlantic states was everywhere and was terrific as well.  I indulged in ice cream like I did with cheese burgers, pancakes and beer - large quantities all at once.  Never tired of it and think I'll go get some now!

14. Family and Friends are the Fabric of Life. I admit that I am having a hard time adjusting to my old life, but I will get there.  Being on the trail there were days where it was incredibly painful to be away from home, missing it terribly.  A supportive text or email went a long way to easing the pain.  It reminded me of my days overseas in the Army; we all longed for home and mail call was the highlight of the day.  It makes me realize just how difficult it is for our troops to be doing what they are doing for us right now.

Crankdaddy Survives Another Fatal Attempt by Old Man Killer Firefly

Shortly after we were celebrating our 2,100 miles on the AT, with 81 miles to go, it seems that Firefly was desperate to take one more fatal shot at me before I made it to the top of Katahdin and be anointed "Survivor Man" by Skid.  Firefly has taken down him, Restless and Rocket Rick, all old men who hiked with Firefly.  I was the last one standing....

Hiking through the woods, head down, minding my own business as I was navigating through roots, rocks and mud, Firefly shouts out, "Look, Crank, that Maple tree's leaves are turning red!".  Could Fall be coming to Maine this early?  I just had to look up to find out!

Knowing that there was a complex configuration of rocks and roots before me, Firefly knew her ploy would work.  I looked up and immediately kicked a rock, stumbled on a root and went flying forward ending my journey with a face plant into the ground and slamming my left knee into a very solid rock.  Could this be it for me after hiking 2,100 miles - 1,900 of that with the Old Man Killer?  I could feel pain shooting through my leg and didn't know what to expect as I fumbled with getting my pack off my head and turning over.  As I look over the damage I watch a huge bump just below my knee swell into the same proportion.  Firefly feigns concern but I notice that she has her fingers crossed in hopes that this just may be my demise.  Not to be deterred, I make my way up on to my feet, unassisted, and let her know that I might be down, but I am not out.  As the swelling evolved over the next few days Firefly complimented me on my left knee, saying that the bump now makes it look "not so knobby".

Sorry Firefly, Survivor Man wins this one!

[That's Skid in the picture, keeping his distance from Firefly when we met him going south in the Maine 100 Mile Wilderness]

Does This Man Scare You?

Yea! I'm back home!  But for some reason, no one seems to recognize me!

First stop from the airport was dinner with Carolyn at our favorite restaurant, North Star Bistro.  Just happen to see some neighbors at a table.  As I approach them I can see that they seem to be fearing a confrontation with a homeless person.  I reintroduce myself and everyone relaxes and laughs (except for husband, who remains skeptical that it's really me).  Having a glass of wine awaiting our table a former workmate walks by and I holler out, "Ray"; he looks at me warily not really wanting to make eye contact.  I tell him it's me, Don Tyler, so he approaches me cautiously and says he finally knew it was me when he looked at my eyes.

I decide to get my bike out and ride it down the block.  A couple of boys are selling lemonade on the sidewalk as their parents standby.  I thought, cool, it's been along time since I've had lemonade.  As I approach the lemonade stand the parents huddle their children next to them and ask me whether I live here.  Told them, yes, the house right there (across the street).  They loosened up after I told them my story...and the lemonade was great.

To add injury to insult, I walked into my barbershop to make an appointment for a haircut.  Clipping of hair and sports talk paused as everyone stopped to stare at what was coming through the door.  Pete, my barber of ten plus years, suspiciously asks, "what can I do for you?".  Told him I would like a haircut; promptly says he has nothing available today.  I could see something was wrong, so I said, "Pete, it's me, Don Tyler!".  Long pause and blank stare before he associates name and face and apologizes.  Told him I am looking to get cleaned up.  All ended well as the air came back into the room and the barbershop chatter evolved to me telling my amazing story of the AT.  Haircut appointment on Monday should make it easier for me to approach neighbors, old friends and shopkeepers!

Crankdaddy Crawls Up Mtn. Katahdin to Complete the 2,180 Mile Journey!

Thanks to the support of his terrific hiking partners, Firefly and Rocket Rick, Crankdaddy made it to the top of Mt. Katahdin to complete his five month, one week journey from Georgia to Maine. What made it even more special was that Malarky, Burley and Shepard surprised us on the way up the mountain.  We had received word that they were going to do the 100 mile wilderness in 5 days and summit on the 17th.  Turns out they decided to summit on the 18th.  Firefly, Rocket Rick and I were on our way up the mountain when I heard "Crankdaddy!" from behind.  It was Burley and Malarky barreling up the mountain, followed by Shepard.  It was yet another great reunion...with one fantastic and final reunion at the top of Mt. Katahdin.  How can it get any better?  We made it back down the mountain in one piece!

The 100 Mile Wilderness Lays Between Us and Mt. Katahdin!

Rocket Rick, Firefly and I just arrived in Monson, the last trail town on our way to the final push to Mt. Katahdin!  It's a great day to be off the trail due to the weather - rain has socked everything in.  We are here for our last resupply as we prepare to walk into the 100 mile wilderness...trying to decide how much food to pack that will get us through the wilderness and up to Mt. Katahdin.

Pleasant surprise: turns out we passed Burley, Malarky and Shepard and bumped into them in town here in Monson...another fun reunion.  Also heard that Shofly and Nero made it up Mt. Katahdin yesterday and OTT & Battle Cat made it up around the 6th or so!

Please think of us during this final push!  Will be leaving Friday morning and will not be in touch until we make it to the top!  Thanks everyone for your great support - it really helps to hear from everyone!

Crank

P.S. Nurse Ratchet and Dr. Rocket did a great job and yanking the crusted stitches out of my arm a couple of days ago...sitting on a rock next to a beautiful pond, listening to the loons.

2000 Miles!

Hit the 2000 mile mark today! 181 to go!  Posted a new profile picture for an accurate representation of my grizzled look after 2000 miles on trail.  Keep the support coming!